Island Time

Prince Edward Island is the smallest province in Canada, with only 150,000 people living on the island encompassing just under 2,200 square miles.  Discovered by Cartier in 1534, the island boasts the red fox as its island animal.  I saw a mama and baby fox on the TransCanada Trail, which stretches 450 kilometres all around the island, where the railroad used to run.  We were there during lobster season so every lunch and dinner had some sort of fresh seafood.

The University of PEI Campus is in Charlottetown.  It is best known for its veterinary college, and the large animal program whereby horses are used for learning.  They are in the pasture beside the school.  With 5,500 students from 92 different countries, it is a beautiful place to learn.  I checked out the hockey rink, which boasts the Panthers, who pull up to 1,000 fans per game.

The island has over 90 sandy beaches, and from anywhere on the island the farthest distance to a beach is 15 minutes.  Think about the bounty that provides this little place.  A fellow I met on the plane moved there from Innisfil pre-COVID, bought a house and barn for $212,000, and has a view of the Atlantic Ocean when he awakens, as he goes about his day, and when he retires for the night.  It is no wonder the residents seemed very happy and relaxed...they are literally on island time.

Confederation Trail is a provincial treasure.  I cannot say enough good things about it.  Suitable for cycling, running or walking, and likely skiing in the winter, it is a world apart.  PEI is relatively flat so you can walk for miles on the trail in a natural environment that has only beauty.  There is no smog; no traffic; no noise.  There are birds, flowers, animals, salt marshes, red dirt, and beauty everywhere you look.  It runs through the entire island because it used to be the railroad line.  It is well maintained and literally filled with natural beauty.  One of my girlfriends loves cycling and I recommended it to her.  It is the perfect place to relax, exercise and enjoy nature in a serene, peaceful, stunning environment.  It takes a month to walk the whole thing, tracking about 20 to 25 kilometres per day.  Cycling you could do it in two weeks.

The island has 63 lighthouses, all looking out at gorgeous red soil coastlines, most of which are eroding.  The coastline is iconic.  PEI has red soil everywhere, and it is unique.  There is a lot of iron oxide in the soil, giving it a completely different colour than anywhere else on the continent.

Lucy Maud Montgomery looms large on the island.  Japanese tourists come in droves to see the homestead that inspired Anne of Green Gables.  The Anne of Green Gables Museum is well done, as is the preserved farmhouse that inspired the home of Marilla and Matthew along with the well-loved redheaded orphan.  The island is known for Anne of Green Gables, and there are numerous cabins and cottages all around Cavendish that are full all summer long with tourists from around the world.  We ate at a fish and chips place nearby that was delicious, again because everything was fresh.

The tulips were out in force when we were there.  The houses are wooden and brightly coloured, with a lot of charm.  Charlottetown is immensely walkable and many of the houses are lovely.  There are few mansions.  Most houses are modest, colourful and well-tended.

Charlottetown has about 50,000 people.  The houses on the ocean are well tended and lovely.  The ocean boardwalk is a wonderful place to inhale the salt water air and fully experience the joy of being next to a powerful body of water.  The underlying currents resulting in waves make you realize how small you are in comparison.  Cruise ships come into port, sometimes as many as three a day, during cruising season.  We met a number of Americans from Michigan and Massachusetts wandering the town and enjoying the ocean living.

Clyde River is about 14 kilometres outside of Charlottetown.  I rented a bicycle for the day and pedaled out, took photos of my husband's family gave plots, and cycled back.  The TransCanada Highway has a broad shoulder that makes biking easy.  Also, the island is not busy, so there is not a lot of traffic relative to a more crowded place.  The cemetery connected to the church was in alphabetical order and very old.  Churches are an important part of PEI culture, although even on the island, the churches are graying.  Across the street from where we were staying in Mt. Stewart, a church was playing rousing music prior to service, enticing me to attend the service.  The parishioners were welcoming and kind, and they discussed during the service how all the churches on the island are losing members.

I love seafood, the fresher the better, so I ate incredibly well all trip.  My girls tried lobster rolls but they preferred fresh shrimp and fresh halibut, especially with fresh cut fries.  I only ate local fare when there, and had the best meals as a result.  The clam chowder and seafood chowder was unbelievably good.  Spending 10 days in PEI was glorious, and I would definitely do it again.  As I write this, I am craving a fresh lobster roll.