Queen Killarney

"The sweet clarity of mind is found in the deep roots of the wilderness."  Nature photographer Robbie George said it well.  There is a bit of the wild in all of us, and I have been fortunate enough to explore that beauty a lot the past two years.  Enter Killarney Provincial Park: 645 square kilometres of silver mountains and rose granite with 50 crystal clear lakes...a UNESCO biosphere protected place where the Group of Seven painted regularly.

My friend Nancy is an impressive athlete.  Daily 100 kilometer bike rides are commonplace for her, and she just finished the Beaton Classic with a time of three hours.  Our destination this past week was Silver Peak, her favourite hike.  Silver Peak is the highest point in Killarney.  There are two ways to access the hike to the peak, both requiring paddling and hiking.  We accessed the peak via Bell Lake, where you can rent canoes and kayaks for the 3 kilometer journey over to the start of the hike.  Nancy brought her own.

The paddle was a good workout, and the water was like glass for part of the journey and choppy for the other part.  The scenery en route was tranquil.  There are very few cottages in the park itself, with those that exist having been grandfathered in from before it was designated.  Otherwise, there is no one anywhere for as far as you look.  We came upon a camp site along the banks, but when you paddle you are basically all by yourself in the absolute spectacle that is nature.  The trees line the route, the water is clear, and you are one with nature.

There is a dock at the launching point for the hike, along with racks for your boat.  The hike itself is apparently 5.5 kilometers each way, although Nancy's watch showed 7 kilometers each way.  The path includes part of the 80 kilometer La Cloche Silhouette Trail and is flat for the majority of the hike, rising steeply in the last hour of the hike to the peak.  We came upon fresh bear skat although we did not see any bears.  There were blueberries everywhere on the peak, and the topography was typical northern forest.  You were going pee in the woods because there were no port-a-potties to be found.  We came upon one other twosome on our way up the mountain, but otherwise had the trail entirely to ourselves.  We left at 10:30 am from Bell Lake Launch Point.

The climb to the peak was challenging, and you needed to be sure-footed.  The effort paid off.  At the top, the silver comes from the colour of the rock all over the mountain.  It is gorgeous.  You can see Manitoulin Island, Georgian Bay, the North Passage, all of Killarney Provincial Park, Sudbury in the distance, and glorious views 360 degrees around.  The best idea is to pack a lunch, which we did, and eat it while marveling at the vista.  We munched on grapes, guacamole, crackers, peanut butter and jam sandwiches, bananas, cashews, vegetables from Nancy's garden, gatorade and trail mix.  It tasted so good sitting on top of the world.

There were about 20 people at the peak, from Toronto and Ottawa, most of which were spending multiple days in the park, either at one of the cottages or back country camping.  Everyone we met was incredibly appreciative of the setting, the views, and the wonder of being in the park and experiencing the scenery.  There was a general feeling of good health and gratitude for being there.  The day was a perfect combination of sunshine and wind, and one side of Silver Peak is much windier than the other.  We ate on the side with less wind.

The descent was much easier than the ascent, and much more populated.  We probably encountered 30 people in total coming down.  When we arrived back at the dock, I stripped down and jumped in the clear as glass water of Bell Lake.  While swimming around in the water to cool down, I began expounding on how lucky we were to be in a lake with no one else around, enjoying the untouched and unspoiled waters, and was encouraging Nancy to jump in.  She was on the dock and cooly says to me, after listening to my exposition, "How do you feel about snakes?"  I sputtered and asked why she enquired.  "There is one heading your way now."  I was out of the water quicker than you can say "snake bite" and thankful Nancy warned me.  I love to swim in the lake, but swimming with snakes is not on my bucket list.

We arrived back at Bell Lake Launching Point and headed into the town of Killarney, about 30 minutes away.  Herbert's Fish and Chips is an institution.  It was dinner time and we were starving.  Fresh fish right off the boat, battered and fried, hit the spot along with their homemade fries and coleslaw.  We sat outside watching the comings and goings in the small town of 500 people situated in such a treasured location.  The fishing boat that caught the fish we were eating came into port while we were sitting there, and they began filleting the fish right in front of us.  No wonder it tastes so good.  It is almost still swimming.

With clear minds and full bellies, we headed back to Sudbury, having clocked 20 kilometers of exertion.  I understand why Silver Peak is Nancy's favourite hike.  It was a special day in an exceptional setting, and it stoked my desire to return to Queen Killarney again and again.  Next on my agenda:  The Crack.